October 19, 2011
Eat / foodie / Oyster Club
A genius collaboration between chef James Wayman (formerly the executive chef at River Tavern) and manager Dan Meiser (Firebox in Hartford), this new farm-and-sea-to-table restaurant gets everything right. We arrived for early Sunday dinner and feasted on a dozen local oysters, briny, bacon-studded clam chowder, a tasty pile of tuna crudo perched on guacamole, and, typical of James’ multi-flavored cooking, Vietnamese caramel braised chicken with star anise lime. (An unusual fall stew: Soeltl Farms chicken falling off the bone in a spicy, cilantro-scented broth with sweet potato chunks and jasmine rice. Yum.)
There’s plenty to please the adventurous diner (southern fried quail, garbanzo bean – pumpkin curry) and elevated classics for the rest: hamburgers, hot lobster rolls and that perfect chowder are always on the ever-changing menu. Nothing is overdone or contrived, from the spare barn-board dining room to the waiter’s uniforms of plaid shirts and jeans. You’ll love this place, but make reservations. Word is out.
tags: best clam chowder, raw bar, oysters, mystic oyster club,