It doesn’t take Calvin Trillin to know that the best Chinese restaurants are usually hidden away among nail salons and storefront churches in non-descript mini-malls. Such is the case for Golden Chopstix, located in a shopping plaza on the strip on Route 1, next to an abandoned lot and a Midas. Disregard the setting, and also brace yourself at the entrance, where advertised specials include pig intestine with hot pepper, because once inside this is the place for porky, shrimpy, salty, happy happy, yummy dim sum.
Full bar. Bubble tea. Friendly and efficient service. Hopefully a defibrillator. And, best of all, nearly fifty dim sum choices, including dumplings, steams rolls, spare ribs, and scallion pancakes, which can be supplemented with classic offerings from the appetizer menu, including salted crispy squid. Food writers always talk about the healing effects of Chinese cuisine. Well, with Golden Chopstix there is most certainly some truth to that, as there could be no better hangover cure on earth than getting together a big group to sample sticky rice in lotus leaf or stuffed hot peppers, while you have a few Tsingtao beers, and then take a short ride over to Watch Hill to walk it all off with one of the best ocean views around. As an added bonus, Golden Chopstix is located next door to a tiny Asian market, so if you get inspired you can pick up all the noodles, produce, and seasoning and spices you need to try your own hand at Chinese cooking.
By Dan Pearson
62 Franklin St, Westerly, RI