Waterhouse Oyster Bar, Branford
Published: 10/24/2012 by Erica
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Wherever Suzette and Arturo Franco-Camacho go, I follow (Roomba, Suburban, Tacuba Tacobar), mainly because they serve up fantastic food and a fresh concept every time. Waterhouse is no exception, a witty take on a traditional New England seafood shack, complete with captain's chairs and Suzette's signature handmade chandeliers. A hot popover is always a cheerful start to any meal but don't ask for seconds (as I did), or you'll have trouble plowing your way through an ample portion of mussels with twice fried frites. The warm ricotta with herbs and toasts or fresh burrata with beets make lovely appetizers if you're opposed to oysters (we aren't and had both) and my husband downed his ginger salmon with shrimp grits before I could steal a bite. Wines by the glass are mainly under $10 (a fizzy vinho verde is just $6), and there's a sweet, private party room for up to ten in the back. The space is only about twice the size of its previous incarnation as Swill, so make reservations, only available online.
