There aren’t many compelling reasons for me to drive north on 95 in summer, but a new restaurant by James Wayman and Aaron Laipply, the team behind Nana’s in Mystic and Westerly, had me hopping on the highway posthaste.

James’ chops are legendary, from head chef at River Tavern in Chester to co-owner of The Oyster Club, Engine Room, and Grass and Bone in Mystic, before setting out with partner Aaron Laipply and opening Nana’s (voted Esquire magazine’s “Best New Restaurants in America, 2021). 

They’ve transformed the classic Westerly eatery, The Bridge, into a light and bright gathering spot with a massive outdoor terrace and bar overlooking the Pawcatuck River. 

The spot-on menu, with something to please every palate, is New England, seafood-centered comfort food provided by local farmers and fisherfolk.

Start your dinner with bivalves. The raw bar here is all local, of course, and the briny oysters are served with mignonette or cocktail sauce, but we suggest you try the Salsa Toreados, a spicy combo of jalapeno, soy, garlic, and vinegar. The calamari is lightly dipped in Whit’s Cornmeal and perfectly fried. Don’t sleep on the lobster salad starter, barely dressed with Kewpie mayo (made with egg yolks and bursting with umami) and served in crunchy rice paper. It’s a strong option for gluten-avoidant lobster lovers and a yummy share or dinner order (a steal at $17). And, of course, a hunk of Nana’s famous sourdough, served with garlic butter and/or charred chili blue cheese butter! We happily smeared our slices with both.

After perusing the menu earlier, Laura couldn’t stop talking about the Miso Oven-Baked Haddock with jasmine rice and a local vegetable salad. The sweet soy glaze added dimension to the fresh catch. I can never resist Clams and Linguini; here it’s a fragrant bowl of chopped clams, bathed in lemony butter, served with a healthy portion of fresh spaghetti, and sprinkled with crunchy breadcrumbs. DELISH! 

A Watermelon Margarita and Laura’s juicy, coconuty Miami Jungle went down far too quickly, and we finished up with a hunk of Olive Oil Cake with blueberries and cream. 

The menu is firmly rooted in Rhode Island (James’ famous chowder, cornbread, Ri Clam Cakes, and Stonington Scallops are on the menu), plus salads, burgers, steak frites, and plenty of options for vegetarians and light eaters. Our takeaway was a fantastic dinner of fresh, clean fare packed with flavor and creative spins on classic New England cooking. Prices are reasonable, and the various rooms and outdoor spaces offer an intimate experience despite the size of the place. 

We were OBSESSED with the decor in the “green room,” a cross between Grandma’s summer house and a cool 70s vibe with green and white wallpaper (we both want to plaster our houses in it), bright yellow chairs, and green banquettes.  Our waitress, Tina Keena (yup, that’s her name), was a joyful addition, and we simply cannot wait to go back. 

37 Main Street, Westerly, RI (401) 561-7050

Hours: Mon, Wed, Thurs: 4pm-9pm. Fri: 12pm-10pm. Sat: 12pm-10pm. Sun: 12pm-9pm. Closed Tues.

Website: https://riverbarwesterly.com/
Instagram: @riverbarwesterly