This is an old-fashioned idea of a beachside resort executed with modern style. While the original Victorian structure was demolished and completely rebuilt, elements of the old hotel were thoughtfully salvaged and incorporated in the new one (the front door, the original fireplace in the lobby, the antique elevators). The mammoth building smells of fresh paint, but has a decidely vintage feel. It all seems so, well, perfect: the vast porch for light lunch or cocktails, bright dining room with sweeping ocean views, the sheet of clipped lawn for croquet and the breezy beach cabanas. And it is. Sure, they’ve got to ramp up the army of staff to the level you’d expect of a hotel of this caliber, but on most counts, Ocean House delivers. The tasteful spa offers all manner of treatments AND a mini outpost of our very own Timothy Pamment Salon. The gym is tricked out with something I’ve never seen before: push a button and your personal yoga, spinning, pilates instructor (whatever floats your boat) appears on a huge video screen for a private class. Croquet lessons are offered on the great lawn in the afternoon. So civil. And, oh yes, how could we forget that long and glorious strand of ocean beach? My daughter couldn’t resist, despite the drizzle and freezing water, she dove right in. I HATED to leave.

p.s. And that jar of malted milk balls? Refilled daily.