It’s never made much sense to me that the sort of cheerful and bright restaurant that serves breakfast stops serving it at lunchtime. I mean, why not offer bacon and eggs all day? Who, exactly, decided these foodstuffs are solely meant for the breakfast table? Personally, I think all that protein works better for lunch, and so do the folks behind the happy new joint, Rise, in Mystic. I headed over in between times, around 11:30. After pouring myself a cup of coffee from the mismatched collection at the counter I settled in for a feast of a perfectly cooked and local sunny-side-up, a splattering of the most delicious hash browns (an easy thing to get wrong, but these were crispy outside, creamy in), and I skipped the bacon for homemade brisket hash. I’m a girl who can’t resist hash, and I’m glad I didn’t. This was a griddled cake of tasty, spicy meat that I was determined NOT to finish. But I did. It’s a fresh spot, all white marble tables with French metal cafe chairs. The decor, though sweet, is beside the point. Breakfast all damn day is. Next time, I’ll try one of the breakfast sandwiches, like egg, peanut butter and bacon on an English muffin or Portuguese Sweet Bread French Toast. And, yes, they serve lunch, too. You’ll find soups, salads and sandwiches on the menu. But frankly, it seems superfluous. Have breakfast. You’ll be glad you did.
Good to know: Only 22 seats, so go early or late. Eggs, meats and produce are sourced locally from Leaping Heart Farm, Soeltl Farm, Seacoast Mushrooms, Wehpittituck Farm, and Hidden Brook Gardens. Brunch is BYOB.
10 Water Street, Mystic