Every town deserves a restaurant like this one, and maybe that’s Chapter One’s intention, as the Guilford location is their second on the Shoreline. We headed over for an early dinner on a rainy Tuesday evening.

You won’t find frogs legs or foie gras on the menu (you might have noshed on them at D’Vine Bistro, the previous incarnation), but the roster of dishes provides something for everyone, from dry-aged steaks and burgers to grilled salmon, roasted chicken and pasta, even a vegan paella. And that seems to be the point, good food and no surprises. You can’t go wrong with hanger steak and truffle fries, a tasty portion that was large enough to have for dinner the next night. My husband’s hot lobster roll was just right; fat chunks of fresh lobster dripping in butter on a toasted roll and served with house-made potato chips.

The room slowly filled with couples, families and a fun group of girlfriends. The space hasn’t changed much since D’Vine Bistro,   minus the white tablecloths and somewhat snooty air. And the patio still provides one of the best outdoor venues around, as it’s smack in the middle of a sculpture garden. A lively restaurant on a dismal Tuesday night bodes well, as does the menu of something for everyone. Given a choice of cheesecake, chocolate cake or churros for dessert, a classic cake seemed the way to go, and a humongous chunk (enough for a four-top) turned up at our table. When the world around us seems to be going crazy, sometimes you just want a safe bet, and this happy spot is precisely that.

Bar seating and outdoor dining available.

25 Whitfield St, Guilford

www.chapter-one.com