While there is nothing especially attractive about photos of large slabs of meat, don’t let that deter you, especially if you’re a lover of authentic barbecue. Jack Flaws, the owner of Jack Rabbits and the Rabbit Hole Tavern in Old Saybrook, has taken over the location in Centerbrook sadly abandoned by Wright’s.

The vast menu of traditional slow-cooked meats is elevated by innovative side dishes, chophouse classics, and even tableside carving of hunks of prime rib.

As is Jack’s way, the classic sauces go from mild (me) to torching (my husband), and we happily squirted them all over our piles of pulled pork and brisket. Barbecue entrees come with homemade baked beans (quite tasty) and slaw, but you can always switch out or add on, as I did with a bowl of delectable roasted cauliflower flavored with truffles (I say let’s just sprinkle everything with truffles and make the world a better place). The gorgonzola “Tater Tots” are worth a go, too, and next time I may make my entire dinner from the list of intriguing sides. Or perhaps a “Stuffie”: your choice of meat and toppings enveloped in a large baked potato, a welcome return of a comfort food classic. Lovers of large cuts will be interested in the 40oz Tomahawk Rib Chop for two, or the roasted Prime Rib carved tableside.

Believe it or not, you can try to stick to your resolutions here, too, as simple salads, grilled salmon, and a vegetarian plate are on the menu. But it won’t be easy.

Full Bar, lunch, dinner, happy hour, and take out. Closed Mondays.

78 Main Street, Centerbrook