Little Riggs, A Gastropub for the Early Riser, Branford


During the week, it’s fine to stick with yogurt or oatmeal, but on a weekend, what’s better than a long, lazy morning meal? When we heard about Little Riggs and checked out the menu, we were itching to get over there and made it to Branford early Sunday morning. This is no diner or basic brunch; every dish is meticulously crafted from fresh and local ingredients in intriguing combinations. Chef/owner John Kronfeld started slinging breakfast from a truck in the parking lot of his current location. Three years later, he took over the space and expanded his menu to include dinner, but he takes breakfast as seriously as the evening meal, and we’re all for it.

Little Riggs’ menu ranges from sweet to savory, and we tried lots of it (and took a rather large doggy bag home).

Starting with adorable mini corn waffles with a warm brown butter sauce is the way to go. These delicate morsels make an excellent first course or a “For The Table.” I could have drunk the buttery and sweet syrup, a welcome departure from classic maple.

We happily crunched our way through local mushrooms and ricotta on pain de levain toast, a toothsome and healthy choice for those who lean savory. But WHO can resist Belly Bombs: a mound of tater tots layered with cheddar cheese sauce, crispy beef bacon lardons, drizzled with sun-dried tomato aioli, and topped with a fried egg? We didn’t, and the massive portion makes for a great share.

I’m a big fan of cheesy grits; here they’re studded with those delicious lardons, hot sauce, and scallions. Mixing in the sunny and runny egg on top adds to the silkiness of the dish. Not everything packs a punch; light eaters will be happy with a chia seed banana parfait, egg bites, or a salad.

We arrived early, at 9 am on a Sunday morning. By 9:30, the place was filling up. As alluring dishes whizzed by, we were already planning our next visit. This is a special spot with an innovative chef, so we can’t wait to return for dinner. The menu is as broad as breakfast, ranging from burgers and Bahn mi to Shrimp and Grits and Steak Frites.
See the menu here: