A Brunch Feast at Olmo Kitchen, New Haven


As depressed as I was to hear that Caseus was closing, I was cheered to learn that the next iteration would be a collaboration between Jason Sobocinski, the brains behind the bistro-slash-cheese shop and the super-talented chef, Craig Hutchinson.

We headed over for brunch on a sad rainy day when all you can think about is comfort food. As soon as we stepped over the threshold and sniffed a heady mix of bacon and maple syrup we knew it was going to be worth the trip. The smallish space has been freshly renovated, with seats at the bar and along the side of the narrow room, and then a few more down the stairs in the dining room. Busy at brunch, but the serving team was happily passing around rose mimosas and perhaps one of the most satisfying sake Bloody Mary’s around (pickle juice could be the secret).

We started with a sourdough waffle (from a scratch-made starter of course) infused with maple syrup and fried!  I suggest you begin there, too, and make your way to what could easily be the perfect breakfast: fresh bucatini carbonara in a silky, eggy sauce (you’ll want to dip your toast). A side of braised bacon is more like a chunk of piggy (no surprise there, as Craig’s previous enterprise was called Oink; the guy has a way with pork) that you tear into crispy, salty, stringy bits. You’ll be sad when it’s over.

A pile of buttery, peppery grits with a hint of scallion is topped with a perfect egg that oozes yolk into the hot cornmeal (a happy gluten-free option).

The mismatched Grandma china and Mexican tile hips up the joint, and the cheese shop is now home to a magnificent bagel baker (Pancho!), so don’t go home without a half dozen or so. The Everything Everything is a big win (whole wheat, and well, everything). The staff is delightful which speaks well of the culture of the place, and we would expect no less. If I were giving out stars, they’d get them all. Can’t wait to go back for dinner. Check their social media channels for Monday’s all you can eat buffet: fried chicken and Indian food have made the cut. what’s Olmo you ask? Elm in Italian, of course.

Find hours, menus and more at:  olmokitchen.com

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