January can feel endless, so when an invitation to the launch of the “Red Sauce Joint” landed in our inbox, we practically danced our way to Gioia’s enclosed, heated rooftop. This modern gem, crafted by the minds behind Roia and The Ordinary, boasts a stylish dining room, a marketplace brimming with rare Italian treats, a dreamy Gelateria, and a rooftop that radiates summer cheer or winter coziness, depending on the season. With spirits in need of a boost, we couldn’t wait to dive into the festivities.

The concept this winter (running through April) is all about family-style Italian American feasts, elevated by the freshest ingredients and the chefs’ skill. The Radicchio Salad arrived first, a vibrant mix of bitter greens, tangy blue cheese, and sweet balsamic. I mistakenly went back for seconds before the next course, Potato Scarpariello, appeared. These twice-cooked potatoes were crispy on the outside and so creamy on the inside, tossed with sautéed onions and peppers. We begged the chef for the recipe. If potatoes could be a revelation, these were. I slurped up the buttery, briny Linguine and Clam sauce (one of my all-time favorite dishes), and here it was perfection with the addition of shallots and chili flakes. Delightfully, on offer were both of our favorites, and while I had a bite of the mammoth Chicken Parmesan, Laura was having her own party. The portions were so generous, we left with enough for days of delicious leftovers.

This is more than just winter comfort food; the bar and rooftop are nostalgic and convivial, the kind of place where you chat with strangers and shamelessly eye their plates.

The cocktails are Italian-inspired, and we were happy to imbibe (damp January!) The Rossini Spritz had my name on it; an Aperol-based concoction, fizzed with Prosecco and topped with a cloud of strawberry foam.  Laura’s Strawberry Snow was a bit stronger: gin and Chamberyzette with botanical notes and tonic. 

I’ve always believed that everyone loves Italian food, and this combo of elevated favorites, served family-style with warm service and a cozy vibe is just what we need this winter. 

Make reservations for upcoming special guest chef dinners: Dan Kardos from Café Melba (2/22), Joel Gargano from Grano Arso (3/22), and Andy Kitko from Oceans/Carlotto New York (4/26). (Guest Chefs are subject to change.) 

ROOFTOP HOURS

Fri–Sat: 5-10 p.m.

Sun: 2-8:30 p.m.

Good to know: Get there early to browse the marketplace before dinner. 

gioianewhaven.com