Breakwater: Happy Hour With An Unparalleled View


By Dan Pearson

After the departure of Skipper’s Dock, locals were eager to see what would replace such a beloved institution. Swooner’s then arrived from upstate New York with high hopes and far, far higher prices. But Swooner’s was, to put it bluntly, a total disaster, more an SNL skit than a night of fine dining. Pretty much anyone who ate there has a Swooner’s horror story. So it is safe to say that everyone was relieved when Mari Kodama and the JTK Management team, known for Steak Loft and Go Fish, came in to the rescue by opening Breakwater. The first year out was, more than anything, a salvage operation: build back the public confidence, don’t overthink it, a little fried clams, some solid summer drinks, let the stunning sunsets and water views work their charms. But Breakwater (not BY the water but literally situated ON the water) has not only caught its stride, it’s flourishing, with a mix of seafood and bar food standards along with more inventive or light dishes, such as a pesto shrimp antipasto salad, and frequent beer, wine, or spirit pairing dinners. The tap selection is extensive without being overwhelming. The fish tacos are messy in the best way. And the happy hour may be one of the better along the shoreline, not only because the Breakwater deck has a nearly unparalleled view, but because the specials include a $5 Tito’s martini and half-price bar bites.

From the archives: Breakwater

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