Roli has been on my radar for a while, but I don’t get down to New Haven nearly enough. My birthday and a long-awaited concert finally gave me the perfect excuse! Even though Jon Batiste sadly canceled his show at Westville, we kept our 5 pm reservation at Roli. The space is chic and airy, anchored by a circular, lively bar and an open kitchen with every seat at the chef’s counter already claimed by 5pm! Cushy leather banquettes and classic bentwood chairs (always a promising sign in my book) completed the scene. At the helm is Roland Olah, a Hungarian/Irish chef with French classical training, named one of Hungary’s top 10 chefs before heading to NYC to work with Daniel Boulud. Oh, and he’s a 2026 James Beard Foundation Award finalist. The man has chops!

A birthday gives us license to try everything on the menu, and we did not stint. For those who judge a restaurant by its bread, Roli delivers: a warm, crusty boule with a light crumb landed on our table alongside housemade truffle butter, and we devoured it in seconds. Next, a parade of starters: a roasted rainbow cauliflower appetizer so good we nearly licked the plate, an unusual presentation of deconstructed garlicky escargot served on baguette, a fresh watermelon and cucumber salad, and delicate tempura squash blossoms. (Yes, we got carried away)! 

The dinner menu rotates nightly with European specialties, and Thursday was “Frenchie” Night (my fave, of course). Despite the season, I couldn’t resist chicken fricassee, a deeply flavorful stew of melting chicken, mushrooms, pearl onions, potatoes and carrots in a velvety wine sauce. Next time, I’m having the butcher’s steak for two, a showstopper with crispy potatoes, mushrooms and onions, served with your choice of bordelaise or garlic butter (or both!). Seafood fans will be happy to know both the swordfish and branzino arrived perfectly cooked and gorgeously presented. 

Even after our epic feast, we couldn’t resist sharing the irresistible profiteroles for dessert. After a happy night, our server surprised us with postcards to write to friends, which the restaurant would send out for us. We were utterly charmed, and agreed that this was the best meal we’d had in ages! We’re already plotting our return to taste the rest of the menu.

rolinewhaven.com

673 Chapel Street, New Haven