Chef Colt Taylor Opens The Essex Brasserie in Branford
One thing we know about Chef Colt Taylor is that the guy doesn’t sit still! Well known for his inventive takes and ever-changing menu of classic cuisine at the Essex in Old Saybrook, he’s now revamped his Mexican restaurant, Los Charros, in Branford. The new iteration, The Essex Brasserie, makes perfect sense. It’s the baby sister of his fine dining spot.
Within just a few weeks, all the vestiges of the Mexican restaurant were erased and replaced with classic French bistro decor, white cloths draped on the tables and walls hung with his mother, Melissa Barbieri’s exuberant artworks.
The menu is a delight for those of us who are always hankering for French fare: hors d’oeuvres include oysters, duck confit, French onion soup, and steak tartare. Choose Moules Frites, Fluke Meunière, Steak Frites, and even Beef Wellington for dinner. None of my friends will be surprised about my order: a perfectly roasted half chicken with silken pomme puree and broccolini. For me, this is the ultimate comfort food, and it’s beautifully prepared and presented here. Next time, I’ll go for the Seared Salmon and Lentils, another favorite. Deserts are French standards, too: creme brûlée, pavlova, pots de creme. I’ll always choose chocolate, and the consistency and deep, not-too-sweet flavor is sublime. You’ll want to share this one.
Chef Colt takes his cocktail program seriously, and the bar offers nostalgic drinks with a French accent. I sipped a Sidecar, a tasty mix of bourbon, orange liqueur, and lemon, while Laura stayed true to her tequila obsession with Le Remainder: blackberry and sage shrub with lime. I love that the drinks menu is straightforward; I’m often confused by the trend for elaborate concoctions with too many ingredients.
We were surprised and delighted to discover that the chef de cuisine is the son of an old friend, and we think he’s a rising star! Our server was attentive and cheerful (and patient while we took pix!) despite the restaurant filling up entirely by 6:30 pm.
While Branford is a bit of a haul for us, the Brasserie is right off the highway, so it’s an easy stop. We’re constantly bemoaning the fact that there’s so little French food on the Shoreline that we’ll definitely add this spot to our regular restaurant rotation.
See the menu: theessexbrasserie.com
Good to know: Happy Hour Tuesday through Friday, 5 – 6:30, $9 for 1/2 dozen oysters, $8 specialty cocktails, and $6 wine.
Hours: Tuesday thru Saturday 5 to 9pm
